One Man In Bangkok

2008-05-05T07:37:00.006+07:00

IT'S GETTING BETTER ALL THE TIME...

Last July, I posted about a Thai Beatles tribute band called "The Beaters." Since then, I've seen the band several times and have become friends with the guy who plays "John" (I still don't know his real name though, I just call him John). Well John also plays in another Beatles tribute, this one is called "The Better" (no, not "The Betters," simply "The Better"). I've also seen them a few times, most recently the other day at a fair promoting products that are good for the environment.

I actually like "The Better" a bit better, mainly because their "George" has some kind of midi-hookup on his guitar that allows him to play certain parts for songs like "A Day in the Life," "Penny Lane," and "I Am The Walrus" that sound almost exactly the way they were originally recorded. When you throw in a few other favorites like "Please Please Me," "Yesterday," "Hey Jude," "Octopus's Garden" and "I Want to Hold Your Hand," you have a pretty entertaining show.

The Better play every Friday night at O'Reilley's Irish Pub on Silom Road, so if you're ever in the area, check them out.

2008-03-29T15:00:00.005+07:00

ANOTHER EXAMPLE OF BLATANT BANGKOK COPYRIGHT INFRINGEMENT

Like many places in Asia, Bangkok is a hotbed of pirated goods: CDs, DVDs, T-shirts, designer handbags, software...

You name it, if it can be copied cheaply and sold at a profit, it's probably available in Bangkok. And the stuff is not hard to find. One can barely walk down the sidewalk without running into a vendor hawking a copy of something and there are even entire malls dedicated to bootleg merchandise.

Here's an example of a well-known brand identity that has been appropriated for another purpose: the KISS Go-Go bar in Patpong.

Before we relocated here in June 2006, I was a lifelong resident of Detroit Rock City and have been a card-carrying member of the KISS Army since the age of 8. Somehow, I have a feeling that Gene Simmons, Paul Stanley and the rest of the Knights In Satan's Service have nothing to do with this place.

And based on it's location in seedy Patpong (otherwise known as the armpit of the Universe), I'm willing to bet that there's a lot more being served up in the KISS bar than a little Cold Gin...

Rock and Roll All Nite (and Party Everyday) indeed!

2008-03-26T12:33:00.023+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: VISITING THE HILLTRIBES OF NORTHERN THAILAND - AM I AN IRRESPONSIBLE TOURIST?

Since we were in Northern Thailand, I felt it was important to see some of the indigenous people of the region, and there are certainly opportunities to do just that, but afterwards I had rather mixed feelings about the whole experience.

What I really wanted to check out were the famous "Long Neck" women of the Karen tribe. I think everyone has seen pictures of these ladies in publications like National Geographic or on the Discovery Channel, but how many people can actually say they saw them in person? To me that chance was too good to pass up, despite the protests from my wife who had read that the villages are nothing more than tourist traps, these people are basically exploited, treated like sideshow attractions and held against their will. I'm not sure how much of this is true, but after the visit I feel it's probably a strong possibility.

The day before, we visited the Hilltribe Museum and Education Center in downtown Chiang Rai (no photos were allowed) and they also claim that everything my wife was saying was correct and one could learn more there than if they actually visited the villages. Still, I was determined to see for myself...

We arrived at the village and paid our 300 baht (around $10) apiece to enter. The first thing that is unusual about the village is that it gathers several hilltribes together. I don't think these people really live like this. The first woman we saw was from the Palong tribe, famous for their large earrings.

The Akha tribe wears distinctive headdresses and clothing. They originate from China and throughout history have worked in rice fields. The houses they live in are on situated on stilts.

The Lu Mien-Yao tribe also hails from China (Tibet), but have immigrated to places like Thailand, Laos and Vietnam. They have their own unique clothing and headdresses that distinguish them from the Akha tribe.

The Lahu-Muser tribe are known to be experts in herbal medicine as well as hunting and trapping. When we visited them, they treated us to an ethnic dance and music performance.

The Karen tribe comes from Myanmar (originally known as Burma) and their distinguishing characteristic is only far too obvious. I'm not sure what the reason for their neck rings are, but the handout at the village claims they help the women maintain individual and tribal identity while at the same time protecting them from tiger bites. They also wear the rings around their wrists and ankles and the whole getup has to be terribly uncomfortable for them.

The women start to wear the rings at an early age (and many youngsters at the village were already sporting them). From what I've read, the practice does not actually stretch their necks, but rather collapses their shoulders resulting in disfigurement. It's an odd practice, that's for sure.

The rings themselves are quite heavy. As you can see, this one weighs about 5.5 kilos, which is just over 12 pounds. I can't imagine how that must feel.

Many of the women in the camp smiled for photos, but most seemed bored and apathetic. Perhaps they are tired of tourists and being asked to pose all the time and maybe they are being held their against their will, and if they are, why isn't anyone in the Thai government doing anything about it? And that begs the question, am I an irresponsible tourist for wanting to visit this village?

It can be argued that our visit didn't help exploit the situation any more than the bus loads of tourists whom were already there and if we decided not to go on principle, it wouldn't have done any good overall either.

Is this place like a human zoo? In a way, I think the answer is yes. We paid money just to look and take picture of people living in a habitat that is close, but not exactly like their real home. Of course, there are people in Bangkok paying money to look at women every night. Is this kind of exploitation the same thing?

But are these people really worse off now than they would be if they weren't there? Doesn't sitting around posing for pictures and selling trinkets and souvenirs seem like a much easier way of life than toiling in a rice field all day with a baby strapped to your back? I'm willing to bet they probably make more money at the village than doing that...

These are the questions that caused me to have mixed feelings about this excursion. I'm glad I went. I got some interesting photos and memories, but I also felt odd about it and at the same time, thankful for the way my life has turned out so far.

2008-03-25T20:55:00.047+07:00

OUTSIDE BANKGOK: HOUSES OF THE HOLY IN CHIANG RAI AND THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE

Wat Phra Kaew

Located in the heart of downtown Chiang Ria, Wat Phra Kaew is the city's most famous wat, mainly because it was the original home of the Emerald Buddha, which now resides at a wat with the same name at the Grand Palace in Bangkok (see related post from July 11, 2006).

This wat also is associated with a local legend. Rather than retype the whole thing in my own words, you can read about it below:

While we were there, we chatted with a few monks. The one on the right wanted to know if we were excited to have Hillary Clinton be our next Prime Minister.

Wat Phra That Doi Wao

Situated on a steep hill in Mae Sai near the Myanmar border, this wat is said to have been built in memory of several thousand Burmese soldiers who died fighting there in 1965. We were too lazy to climb to the top, so we hired motorcycles to take us there for 10 baht apiece.

Once atop the summit, we had a nice view of Myanmar.

If you look closely, you can see another wat just across the border (it's the building with the steeple).

I'm not sure what the significance of this scorpion statue is (the sign was in Thai).

Wat Chedi Luang

The province of Chiang Saen (near the Mekong River) is home to many ancient wats and the whole area has a similar feel to the ancient Thai capital of Ayutthaya (see related blog entry from January 21, 2007). I personally like these kinds of places because the experience of visiting them is like taking a step back in time.

Wat Chedi Luang dates back to sometime between the 12th and 14th Centuries. They just don't have things that old in the US.

Wat Pa Sak

This impressive wat also dates back to the 14th Century and is made up of seven monuments. I found the ruins to be surprisingly well-preserved for their age.

Wat Athi Ton Kaew

In some instances, it seems as if parts of the city were actually built up around the ruins. As you can see here, Wat Athi Ton Kaew is located right next to someones house (what you can't see is that it is also in front of a plantation of banana trees).

The most interesting thing about this wat is that it is evidence of the practice of building a brick stupa over an older existing one.

The brick stupa dates back to 1515. The date of the one underneath is unknown.

Wat Luang

Located in Chiang Khong near the Laos border, Wat Luang is one of the most colorful wats I can recall visiting, both inside and out.

The paintings in the interior reminded me a lot of the ones you'd find in an old Italian church, not because of their style, but the fact that there were so many of them and they all seemed to be telling different parts of a religious story.

Beyond the bowls of rice and the Mekong River is Laos. Hopefully we'll visit there someday.

2008-03-23T10:43:00.013+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: A SWEET RETREAT: DOI TUNG ROYAL VILLA

One thing that the Golden Triangle region is most famous (or infamous for) is the production of opium. In an effort to help cut down on the this practice and all of the illicit activities that go with it, Princess Mother Srinagarindra (the mother of Bhumipol Adulyadej, the current King of Thailand) dedicated the last years of her life to helping the Doi Tung region clean up its act. She was instrumental in many programs designed to stop opium production and eventually built a house there.

The place is called the Doi Tung Royal Villa and it is still used by the Royal Family today as a retreat. The Princess Mother had spent some time in Switzerland and Villa was inspired by mountain homes in both Europe and Thailand.

Photos were forbidden inside the Villa. It was nice, but kind of subdued and not as majestic as one would think a Royal home would be. Visitors to the Villa were not allowed to wear shorts there, so we were required to put on the baggy jeans before entering.

Adjacent to the Villa, the Princess Mother also built the Mae Fah Luang Garden, a shrine to beautiful landscaping techniques and a peaceful place for a stroll.

2008-03-22T08:46:00.023+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: FLEETING IMAGES OF CHIANG RAI & THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE

Chiang Rai is one of the northernmost provinces in Thailand and most well-known as being the gateway to the Golden Triangle, the place where Thailand, Laos and Myanmar meet.

They city of Chiang Rai is an OK place to spend a day or two, but not too exciting. Like many other Thai cities, the streets and sidewalks are congested with cars, motorbikes and street vendors, but it lacks things like huge shopping centers, towering skyscrapers and a full-fledged red light district that are part of the personality of Bangkok. It did have a few decent restaurants, a night market and a place to get a good, cheap foot rub, so we were content.

Once you get out of the city, you can start to explore the region a bit. Many people visit Chiang Rai to go trekking, but we just rented a car and hired a driver to explore. There are some mountainous areas that offer nice views and unique insights into how people in other parts of the country live.

Mae Sai is the northernmost point in Thailand and the location of the Thai-Myanmar border. It's not too exciting, just a lot of shops selling the same kind of crap you can buy most anywhere else, but at least we got to look across the border and see "the country formerly known as Burma."

Sop Ruak is the official Golden Triangle spot. In the picture below, Myanmar is just behind my right shoulder and Laos is just behind me left.

They have a pavilion set up with all sorts Buddha images, elephant statues and other similar images just so you know that you're at a special place.

Once you climb up the steps and go behind the giant golden Buddha in the picture above, there's a slide of sorts where you can roll coins into the stomach of the white Buddha below. Every time someone did it, a recording would play with a Thai message followed by "Ha ha ha! Happy Buddha! Ha ha ha!" It got kind of old after the first 20 or so times of hearing it.

Chiang Khong is another border town. It backs up to the Mekong River and just beyond that is Laos.

2008-03-16T11:27:00.010+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: TYPICAL THAI TOURIST TRAP: THE FLOATING MARKET

The Damnoen Saduak Floating Market is located in the Ratchaburi province, and it's a good hour or so drive outside of Bangkok. But is it worth the journey and hassle to get there? If you ask me, not really...

The concept of getting in boats and floating down a klong to shop dates back to ancient times in Thailand and is the old-fashioned and traditional way for people to buy fruits, vegetables and other goods. These days, floating markets still exist, but most are tourist destinations and their authenticity is questionable.

When we arrived at Damnoen Saduak, the parking lot was already filled with giant tour buses and the concourse was packed with people. When we finally figured out what was going on, we were told that it would cost us 600 Baht (over $20) per person to get into a boat and experience this this ancient tradition (with no discounts for children). When we rolled our eyes in disgust and started to walk away, the price magically dropped to 200 Baht per person, but we just got in the car and drove another 30 seconds to the actual market. We didn't ride in a boat, but we walked around and discovered that all the stuff for sale was basically the same stuff that you can find on the streets of Bangkok on any given day. We didn't need any t-shirts, trinkets or knick knacks, so we just hung around for a bit and took these photos.

Basically, I was not very impressed with the Floating Market concept and would only recommend it to someone who is Hell-bent on checking out.

2008-03-16T08:17:00.023+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: HANGIN' WITH THE CHANGS AT THE TAWEECHAI ELEPHANT CAMP

The novelty of seeing an elephant (or chang) around Bangkok wore off after the first week or so of living here. On any given night, you can spot one on the sidewalks with its owners selling photo opportunities. They are still impressive to see in person, but not actually what I'd call a rare occurence.

The kids have ridden elephants a few times at various zoos and resorts since we relocated to Thailand, but Joanna and I haven't. A few weeks ago we had some friends visiting from out of town, so we made a trip to the Taweechai Elephant Camp in Kanchanaburi (see related blog entries from March, 2007) to cross this experience off of our list.

At first, the elephant handlers take you through a sparsely wooded area and up some hills and other inclines. If you've never ridden an elephant, prepare yourself for a bumpy ride.

Then we went through a small river (the staff at the camp were nice enough to take most of photos for us).

The elephant that Max and I got to ride on was a bit on the small side...

Afterwards, we got to hang around with this baby elephant. I wonder how long it will be before he (or she) has to start carting people around...

For the most part, this was a nice way to spend an afternoon and it was nice to get away from crazy, congested and smoggy Bangkok for a few hours (please note the brand of beer I'm drinking: Chang!)

2008-03-15T09:02:00.015+07:00

FARANG RESTAURANT REVIEW: BED SUPPERCLUB

The Bed Supperclub is one of the most popular nightspots in Bangkok, a place where people go to see and be seen. There are actually two sections to it: a nightclub and a restaurant. I've been to the nightclub a few times for networking events, but I find the loud techno music and extremely overpriced cocktails a bit off-putting.

Still, I've been wanting to go the restaurant side for a long time. In fact, before we moved here, I saw some photos of it in a magazine (Travel & Leisure?) and being the fan I am of futuristic architecture and furniture, I knew I wanted to check it out. Well, it took a year and a half, but we finally ate there a few weeks back.

The exterior of the Bed Supperclub looks like something out of the Jetsons or 2001: A Space Odyssey. I had to take this photo during the day because it's impossible to get a good one at night with our little digital camera.

The interior has one basic color scheme: white. There are two levels and each has long beds against the wall. There are a few tables in the middle of the place, but who wants to sit at one when they're going to a place called the Bed Supperclub? The stark interior is jazzed up with sculptures and a series of revolving art exhibitions.

As you can see, we went to the Bed (as people around here refer to the place) with a large group - eight people. Because of the "sitting on a bed concept" that is about two people too many, because the last two people to arrive (that would be us) don't get a place to lean their backs against for the entire evening. For this reason, I just could not get comfortable at this place. What the really need is some sort of partition between the different groups of people so everyone can have a place to sit relatively normally.

The Bed promotes itself as a trendy, hip and funky place and they back it up by having their employees do trendy, hip and funky things throughout the night. If you've ever wanted to have someone dressed up like futuristic bug offer you a giant sugar cube made of styrofoam, then this is the place for you.

The restaurant at the Bed is one of those places that has a set, scheduled menu. Generally, you need a reservation to get in and they ask you to arrive at 7:30 even though dinner isn't served until 9:00. I think the concept for that is to get patrons to absorb as many not-so-stiff drinks at stiff prices.

Since the menu is set, you have to eat whatever they're serving that night, but they do ask you in advance if there's anything you're allergic to or just don't like. I am not a fan of fish, so I told them that and got an alternate dish for the main course while everyone else got sea bass.

Another concept here is one of "mystery food." They don't tell you exactly what they're serving until after you eat it. So you get soup, a salad, a main course and a dessert and after everyone is finished with a particular course, they flash the name of the dish on the wall so people know what they just ate. Usually, this sort of thing would scare the bejesus out of me (especially in a place like Thailand where people eat all sorts of crazy stuff), but I'm pleased to report that the food was excellent (and at 1750 baht - or $55 - per person, it better be).

Later in the evening, they have some performance artists come on to entertain the guests. This night, it was a girl painted and posing as a statue for a little while until she is magically awakened by some guy in a flamboyant outfit. They then did some sort of erotic dancing for about a minute before they pranced away. It wasn't quite Cirque de Soleil, but I guess it was OK in a "well there's something you don't see everyday" kind of way.

All in all, the Bed was a good time and I'm glad we got to go once. But to me it's the type of thing you only need to experience once just to say you went. There are plenty of other great (and less pretentious) restaurants around town that have cheaper food and offer an equally good time.

2008-03-05T07:37:00.003+07:00

PROOF THAT WE'RE STILL ALIVE AND WELL AND LIVING IN BANGKOK

No, we did not gorge ourselves to death on Thanksgiving.

It's just been a busy 3+ months here in Bangkok and beyond (including trips to Singapore, Malaysia, Vietnam and Australia) and I unfortunately got a bit behind on my posting. I will try to get caught up on that in the near future.

For now, here's some concrete evidence that we still exist. Seen here is the family with our friend Khun Yawwalak Kaalakeet, just a few weeks ago.

And here's a shot of me with a big Buddha in Chiang Rai...

Until next time....

2007-11-22T22:29:00.000+07:00

HOW AMERICANS SPEND THANKSGIVING IN BANGKOK

Thanksgiving has always held a special place in my heart and is probably my second favorite holiday after Christmas.

Unfortunately, Thanksgiving is not that big a deal around here. Back home, the whole day revolves around it, with a day off of work , watching a parade on TV in the morning, watching my beloved Detroit Lions lose in the early afternoon, then hanging out with they family and gorging ourselves with comfort food like turkey, mashed potatoes, gravy, ham, stuffing, and apple pie until the evening when we have to bundle up and drive home in a food-induced coma.

In Bangkok, it's just another day, with the kids having school and their activities and my wife working, but there are a few restaurants around town (owned by Americans) who offer a Thanksgiving buffet with all of the fixings. When our friend Corey suggested that a bunch of us go to the Great American Rib Company to celebrate this special occasion, it was just what I needed, especially since I was feeling a bit homesick from an email my beloved Aunt Shirley had sent me earlier in the week that read: "There will be 5 empty spots at our dinner table, but we are in hopes that they will one day be filled again!" SOB SOB!

So that's what we did. It was pretty good too. The buffet had all of the standard Thanksgiving favorites, plus ribs and various salads. (Note to Aunt Shirley: the potatoes were decent, but not as lumpy as yours).

I don't know about everyone else, but I made my way through the buffet line four times.

All in all, I think our family has a lot to be thankful for. It's been a good experience over here so far and the past year has been especially fun and exciting. Everyone is happy and healthy. It is all going by so quickly, so it's nice to stop, reflect, and take it all in. I think that's what Max is doing in this picture (on second thought, he's probably just wondering if he could fit more food on that plate).

It was nice to spend the evening with our pals too. I'm thankful for the friendships we've made over here and hope that they continue even after we all go home (or to wherever).

So from our family to yours - Happy Thanksgiving!

2007-11-22T15:18:00.000+07:00

AIN'T THAT A KICK IN THE RIBS? (A MANLY NIGHT OF MUAY THAI BOXING)

Just like back in the West, there is really nothing more macho in Bangkok than watching two sweaty, nearly-naked men beat the crap out of each other. I suppose that's why a movie like Beowulf can be so popular in this day and age.

Last week, myself and some friends were in the mood for a night of manly pursuits so we headed over to Lumpinee Stadium to witness the ancient art of Muay Thai boxing live and in person.

Muay Thai boxing has a lot in common with regular boxing: two guys put on boxing shorts and gloves and dance around a square ring while repeatedly hitting each other.

Also like regular boxing, the boxers will start embracing when they need a short break to catch their breath.

What really sets Muay Thai boxing apart from regular boxing is that other parts of the fighters' body can be used as weapons, not just the fists. This includes feet, knees and elbows. The scoring rules of Muay Thai clearly states that the fighter who uses these weapons correctly, according to the rules, and can weaken or damage his opponent more will be the winner. It was kind of difficult for me to determine if they were doing it correctly or not.

Other rules are as follows: the fighter who uses Muay Thai's techniques correctly according to the rules and can clearly hurt his opponent more will be the winner; the fighter who can use Muay Thai's weapons to cause more cuts and bruises will be the winner; the fighter who makes more moves will be the winner; the fighter who can protect himself and can hit back and avoid getting hit according to Muay Thai's techniques will be the winner, and the fighter who makes no fouls or fewer fouls will be the winner.

I'm not sure what happens if one fighter makes more moves while the other one causes more cuts and bruises. These rules seemed a little ambiguous to me and at the end of most of these five-round fights, I was at a loss as to who the winner was until it was announced.

This was a fun night out, but the dreaded Thailand two-pricing system for foreigners was in full effect this evening. When we went to get tickets, we were told that we had to get the best seats because they wanted to treat us to the best possible experience. We said that we didn't need the best experience (which comes with a price tag of 2000 Baht - over $60), just a good (cheaper) experience. They said, sorry those are the rules: foreigners in front, locals in back. And so you can see, here we are surrounded by our fellow white people:

And most of the Thai people are in the cheap seats:

It was almost as much fun to watch the crowd as it was to watch the fights themselves. There is a lot of open betting going on here and it makes for a rowdy atmosphere with people getting very animated as they cheer every move.

We had to watch eight fights (which took over two hours) before they got to the Main Event. A few times a fighter would get knocked down, but he always got up quickly and each of those fights lasted the full five rounds.

But when the Main Event finally rolled around, the action picked up (faster punching, more punches, more kicking, etc.), but it ended very quickly in the second round and the fighter was put on a stretcher and carried off. To me, it had the feeling of a "fix" but who knows.

Another difference between Muay Thai and regular boxing is that the winner gets a pretty necklace of flowers and ribbons as opposed to a gaudy gold belt.

There were ring girls too, but they were dressed in traditional Thai attire.

Lumpinee Stadium is pretty small, so no matter where you're situated, you are always close to the action. This includes a trip to the toilet where you walk past the area where all of the fighters are getting ready to step in the ring. The whole thing smelled like one giant Ben Gay convention.

All in all, it was a good time, aside from the extreme price gouging for foreigners. I suppose I am used to that over here, but every time it happens whether it's at a national park or a museum or a boxing match, it always rubs me the wrong way because the price is about five times of what a local would pay. Oh well, when in Thailand...

2007-11-22T11:05:00.000+07:00

THE ERAWAN MUSEUM: THE COSMOGRAPHY OF THE EAST

Located a bit outside of Bangkok, the Erawan Museum has several objectives: to continue the traditions of Thai arts and crafts so they can be passed down to younger generations; to provide a safe place where Buddha images can be housed and cared for so as to prevent their loss to other countries and to create an architectural environment which is symbolic of the cosmography of the East.

Despite all that, most people around here know it as the largest statue of a three-headed elephant in the world.

Standing 29 meters high (or 43.60 meters if the base is included), the museum is an impressive site. The grounds around it are similar to many wats and temples around town, with various statues, including one where you can apply gold leaf to it and make an offering.

There are also several bells and gongs that you are encouraged to ring (which is good when you visit a place like this with kids because they are going to try to ring them no matter how many times you ask them not to). Apparently this is one of the noisiest ways to make a spiritual offering known to man.

The basement of the Museum represents the Underworld (or Naga World). This is the place where antiques and artifacts are stored. I found it interesting that they are supposedly here to be protected from relocation to other countries, because some of them were from places like China and Cambodia. A bit of a double standard perhaps?

Pictures were not allowed, but I managed to snap off a few before the security guards started hollering at me.

Inside the base of the Museum (which represents the Hall or Human World) are more antiquities many of which depict religious stories and promote world peace.

From there, you can take a staircase found in one of the elephant's hind legs that leads to its belly. This is representative of Tavatimsa Heaven and contains more Buddha images (still no pictures allowed so shhhhhhh).

The walls and ceiling are covered with a mural that depicts the solar system.

Back on the outside is a lush botanical garden and a pond with a chance to feed some fish. After extreme bell ringing, this is another activity that kids go wild for.

The Erawan Museum was a pretty interesting place to visit if you like unique sites. Honestly, where else can you go and walk inside the belly of giant three-headed elephant?

2007-09-20T08:44:00.000+07:00

SERVICES NOT BLATANTLY OFFERED IN THE USA
(TO THE BEST OF MY KNOWLEDGE)

OK, let's cut to the chase.

Judging by its location in town and a quick perusal of their website, Smile Teen Massage is another one of "those" massage parlors in Bangkok.

But what I'm curious about (but not curious enough to actually go and find out for myself) is the extra service offered in the first six items on their menu sign.

Suppose I had a hard day at work and sat on my chair in such a fashion as to experience some discomfort "below the belt." Could I really go to Smile Teen Massage and get that taken care of (without expecting any other "really extra" services)?

Does that massage really exist? A foot massage, I can understand. Same with neck, shoulders, body, face (and I've experienced them all here and they're great), but does anyone really want just a straight-forward testicle massage (with no added services)?

Even if I pulled my groin playing sports (hahahaha) or ran into the corner of the dining room table the wrong way (probably more likely to happen with me), there's some things that are just meant to be worked out naturally and I can't imagine that a massage there would help to ease any discomfort (in fact, it would probably make it worse).

But to each his own. I guess that's what makes Bangkok such a "special" place for so many people.

2007-08-30T22:56:00.000+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: ONE MAN IN BEIJING

I finally finished detailing the final days of our world tour. I think this was the best one yet and have two pages of words and photos (a lot of photos) to back it up. See it all here:

www.onemaninbeijing.blogspot.com

2007-08-24T14:39:00.001+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: ONE MAN ON EARTH

I have been traveling quite a bit lately and the result is enough material for a whole new series of blogs. If you're interested, please check out the following links:

www.onemanonearth-matt.blogspot.com

www.onemaninflorence.blogspot.com

www.onemaninkyoto.blogspot.com

www.onemaninseattle.blogspot.com

There's more to come later, so check back when you can (and always, comments are appreciated).

2007-08-08T18:51:00.001+07:00

HOUSES OF THE HOLY: WAT MAHABUT (SHRINE TO NANG NAK)

Heading further east on Sukhumvit, you’ll eventually get near another one of Bangkok’s more obscure shrines – the Shrine of Nang Nak (also known as Mae Nak Phra Khanong), which is said to be the burial place of Thailand’s most famous ghost. Situated within Wat Mahabut off of Sukhumvit 77, Soi 7, (not far from the On Nut BTS Station) this shrine is popular with those who seek good luck, wealth or romance.

When one first enters the Wat Mahabut compound, it seems like most other wat in town: several ornate temples and a lot of monks and stray dogs. But as you make your way towards the back, you’ll notice a throng of vendors selling food and various trinkets and this means you’re getting close to the Shrine. Much of this stuff is for sale as an offering to the ghosts of Nang Nak (including beautiful dresses and cosmetics) and her child (toys, candy, milk and diapers).

The story of Nang Nak is a popular one in Thailand and has been the subject of several films including Mae Nak Phra Khanong (1958), Nang Nak (1999) and The Ghost of Mae Nak (2005). The basic plot goes like this: a man (Mak) goes off to fight in a war and leaves his pregnant wife (Nak) behind in a rural village. Nak eventually dies during childbirth, but when Mak returns home the ghosts of his deceased wife and child greet him. He becomes spellbound by them and does not know the truth about their fates. When the other villagers try to tell him what really happened, they are killed by Nak’s ghost who refuses to accept her death and only wants to remain with her husband. Eventually, a Buddhist monk is summoned to the village and gets the ghost to repent and let her husband live his life in peace.

This timeworn tale has often been referred to as the country’s version of Dracula. Like her Romanian counterpart, there has been some debate about how much of the story is true and how much of it is myth, but it’s famous enough that parents will threaten their children with visits from Nang Nak if they don’t behave.

After making an offering and praying to Nang Nak’s gold leaf covered statue, many people will buy lottery tickets from local vendors in hopes that the ghost will bring them financial fortune. The Shrine of Nang Nak is also popular with men looking to get out of military duty, but should be avoided (for obvious reasons) if you are woman who is either wants to get pregnant or is already pregnant (those people should just stick to the Goddess Tuptin Shrine).

2007-08-05T23:39:00.001+07:00

HOUSES OF THE HOLY: CHAO MAE TUPTIM (GODDESS TUPTIN SHRINE)

If you head east down Sukhumvit (from the Erawan Shrine) and make a left turn on Wireless you will be on your way to finding one of Bangkok’s most obscure places of worship – Chao Mae Tuptim (also known as the Goddess Tuptin Shrine). This one is pretty hard to find, unless someone tells you where it is. It is located behind the Nai Lert Park Hotel and backs up to Khlong Saen Saep and I found it by going through the underground car park and coming out the other side (if you get to Soi Somkhit running next to Central Chidlom, then you know you’ve gone too far).

The Goddess Tuptim Shrine is a fertility shrine (as if Bangkok needed another place celebrating fertility) built by the man who also constructed the hotel, millionaire Nai Lert, to honor Chao Mae Tuptim, a female deity who supposedly lives inside a Sai (or Ficus) tree on the site. If you look at the interior of the spirit house at the Shrine, you can see a small image of Chao Mae Tuptim.

Originally, people brought food items, white jasmine flowers, lotus buds and incense sticks to the Shrine to honor the deity, but over the years those gifts were replace by wooden and stone phallic symbols of various sizes.

Some of them will tower over you and many are painted in bright colors.

Surrounding the wooden phalluses, are various small statues of elephants, horses, Thai dancers, monks and regular people.

I don't really believe in fertility shrines and that kind of stuff, but if you live in Bangkok and are having trouble conceiving a child, then I guess it wouldn't hurt to pay a visit to Chao Mae Tuptim and pray for a higher sperm count or something like that.

2007-08-05T20:54:00.000+07:00

HOUSES OF THE HOLY: ERAWAN SHRINE

With hundreds of wats around town and thousands of spirit houses seemingly at every turn, it’s more than obvious that Bangkok is a spiritual place. Another alternative if you’re in an ethereal or otherworldly mood are the various shrines situated throughout the city. Many of them are dedicated to specific themes and steeped in local legend. There are a lot of them around too, but first you have to know where to find them.

Probably the most famous shrine in town is the Hindu Erawan Shrine located by the Grand Hyatt Erawan hotel, at the intersection of Ratchadamri Road and Ratchaprasong Road. It is in the heart of a thriving shopping district and has an interesting history.

It seems that its entire reason for its existence is rooted in black magic and superstitions. In 1956, the government was building the Erawan hotel, but the construction was delayed continually by accidents, injuries, cost overruns and even the loss of an entire shipload of Italian marble. An astrologer was brought in and it was determined that the site was plagued by bad omens, quite possibly because the foundations were laid on wrong date and because the Ratchaprasong Intersection had been used as a place to put violent criminals on display in the past.

It was determined that a shrine was needed to fix all this bad karma and thus, the Erawan Shrine was constructed with a four-faced Brahma statue (designed and built by the Department of Fine Arts) as its centerpiece.

Afterwards, the construction work proceeded without incident. In 1987, the hotel was demolished to make room for the Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, but the Shrine remained.

To this day, it remains a popular tourist attraction and a troupe of Thai dancers is on hand to perform for worshippers.

The dancers can also be hired (for a donation) to thank the Brahama for prayers and wishes that have come true.

Additionally, flower garlands, lotus, incense and candles can be purchased to offer up to the Brahma.

2007-08-04T23:29:00.000+07:00

SNAKES ON A STAGE

Generally speaking, a trip to a snake farm or zoo can be rather dull. Looking at snakes that are behind glass or in a cage is about as exciting as watching paint dry (or grass grow or World Cup Soccer or some other cliche that is indicative of boredom). So with that in mind, I had low expectations for Bangkok's own snake farm, the Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute.

Fortunately, my trip to the Institute (which is run by the Thai Red Cross Society) turned out to be pretty fun, because I got to see a live snake demonstration that features some of Thailand's most poisonous (cobras and vipers) and non-poisonous (boa constrictors) inhabitants.

Having never seen a cobra in person, it was pretty interesting to watch them bob and weave and lunge forward at the slightest movement.

The occupation "snake handler" is not one I aspire to, but thankfully there were several brave gentlemen on hand to make sure these deadly snakes got put back where they belong.

All of the handlers at the Institute have been bitten more than once and one guy there had some visual proof that shows just how dangerous these snakes are.

Throughout the show, a presenter was on hand to talk about the snakes and answer questions from the audience (she also hosted a brief slide show before the demonstration).

Later, they let people touch the snakes (thankfully, these were the non-poisonous ones).

The main reason the Institute exists is to manufacture vaccines and serum for unfortunate folks who are on the receiving end of a poisonous snake bite. This medication is made from actual snake venom and the handlers demonstrated how the snake is milked.

While I found the trip to the Institute interesting and kind of entertaining, it really isn't worthwhile unless you watch the show. It takes place at 11:00 am and 2:30 pm daily, so make sure you plan your trip around those times.

2007-07-12T17:05:00.000+07:00

MEET THE BEATERS

Anyone that knows me knows that I am a hardcore Beatle fanatic. I've loved the greatest rock group in history group since I was a kid and have spent a lot of time (and money) listening to their music, watching their DVDs, reading countless biographies, and collecting memorabilia. I've seen Paul McCartney in concert four times and Ringo Starr once (sadly I never got to see John Lennon or George Harrison perform live).

To me, the universal appeal of the Beatles are their timeless songs. I am of the opinion that if you don't like the Beatles music, then there must be something wrong with you. My three kids love the Fab Four and judging by the amount of T-shirts I see around town, a lot of people in Thailand do too. So when I learned that there was a full-fledged Thai Beatles tribute band that performs regularly at a local restaurant, I just had to go check them out.

The Beaters can be seen live on stage every Wednesday night at the Log Home on Sukhumvit Soi 55. I wasn't really sure what to expect from them, but I was immediately impressed by their skill and obvious love for the material. They played every song flawlessly and seemed to be having a good time doing it.

Most of the songs in their set were from the earlier Beatles albums including "I Want to Hold Your Hand," "All My Loving," "I Feel Fine," "Ticket to Ride," "Can't Buy Me Love," "Nowhere Man," "Day Tripper," and the Beatles version of Buddy Holly's "Words of Love." Based on their costumes, I expected the whole set to comprised of songs from this part of the band's career, and was pleasantly surprised to see them roll out such later classics as "Let it Be," "Hey Jude," "I Will," "Don't Let Me Down," "Across the Universe," and my all-time favorite "A Day in the Life." Many of these were requests from the audience and I was tempted to see if I could get them to play something really obscure like "Helter Skelter" or "Hey Bulldog," but I didn't get a chance because I was too busy enjoying the show.

Sure, there were little things I could have nitpicked about the performance, like the fact that "Paul" was right-handed...

"John" sang lead on "Taxman..."

While their "George" supplied the main vocals for "Twist and Shout."

"Ringo" didn't even sing at all, even when the band played "Yellow Submarine."

But all this didn't really matter. These guys were having a good time and the audience was too and that's what's important. They were really nice too and seemed to appreciate the shirt I was wearing.

On a personal note, the Log Home will always hold a special place in my heart because it was the site of my son Max's debut on guitar a few Sundays back.

He played a great version of "You Really Got Me" by the Kinks backed by a full band and I was pretty impressed by his performance (not to mention quite proud). I think this kids got a future (if he keeps practicing). Keep it up buddy!

2007-06-30T07:07:00.001+07:00

DUDE LOOKS LIKE A LADY: A TRIP TO CALYPSO CABARET

Unlike the U.S.A., transsexuals and transgendered people are a visible and accepted part of Thai culture, with the most common types around town known as kàthoeys. I assume this attitude is influenced by Buddhism, a religion which places a high value on tolerance.

Also called ladyboys, kàthoeys were once men (some technically still are) but are living their lives as females. The term "kàthoey" can apply to someone who is just cross-dressing, or others who have had things added or removed to make their transformation complete.

I admit, the sight of a kàthoey can be a bit startling at first, especially when it's at one extreme or the other. Some have done such a remarkable job that for a moment you can catch yourself thinking "Hey that person is kind of hot." Other times, they simply look like one of Dr. Frankenstein's experiments gone terribly wrong. How a total stranger chooses to live their life is really none of my business, so "to each his own."

Generally, I'll see kàthoeys on the skytrain or working behind the cosmetic counter when I walk through the department store. But last week, we went with a group of friends to full-scale kàthoey cabaret, just for kicks.

Located in the Asia Hotel, the Calypso Cabaret was basically a lot of dancing and lip-synching done up in campy style. While the performers may not have had the kind of talent you'll find on the Las Vegas strip, they made up for it with sheer enthusiasm.

The gender-bending performance featured elaborate costumes, fancy set pieces and up-tempo music.

Some of the costumes left little to the imagination, which led me to believe that most of the performers have had the full surgery or at the very least are masters at the art of concealment.

In the middle of the show, they dedicated a few numbers to some of pop culture's most famous divas, including Marilyn Monroe...

Tina Turner...

Josephine Baker...

And Michael Jackson.

Not all of the performers could have passed for females. Some were obviously men in drag and for the most part, provided the comic relief in the show.

What usually happens in a show like this is that a male member in the audience will get singled out by the entertainers on the stage and get playfully harassed throughout the night. Since our seats were in the first and second row, the members of our group were all fearful that we were going to be a target of some unwanted affection. Fortunately, that person wasn't me. Unfortunately for our friend Ron, it was him.

As the night wore on, Ron was constantly serenaded by this particular performer, who had a different outrageous getup every time.

I have to admit, that Ron was a great sport about the whole thing and after the show I think he even exchanged phone numbers with his new "friend." (Just kidding! Ron is a happily married man whose wife Jenny seemed to get a big kick out of his predicament).

All in all, the Calypso Cabaret was a fun time. It's one of those things you should do at least once when visiting (or living in) Bangkok.

Special thanks to our friend Anselm for arranging the evening and supplying some of these photos.

2007-06-29T13:58:00.000+07:00

FARANG RESTAURANT REVIEW: BAAN KLANG NUM II

Baan Klang Num II (which means "House in the Middle of the Water II" ) is a popular seafood restaurant with the locals here in Bangkok. It is a bit off the beaten path (on Rama III Road) and therefore not too well known with expats. It is situated on the Chao Phraya River, but further down from famous places like the Grand Palace and Wat Arun.

Recently, we went there with a bunch of friends and had a great time. We had a table right on the River and it was a pleasant, breezy evening and thankfully not as hot and humid as usual.

I don't really care for regular fish, but from what I was told, the river bass was excellent that night.

I do like shellfish and really enjoyed the giant prawns...

However, there wasn't anything really special about the radish carved into the shape of a swan...

One unique item (at least for me) that they had on the menu was ostrich. I never had ostrich before and couldn't pass up the opportunity to at least try it. I'm happy to report that it was delicious.

The combination of a relaxed atmosphere and great food makes Baan Klang Num II an excellent place to hang out with your pals while enjoying a fine meal.

For this reason, I'm dedicating this blog entry to all of the friends I've made here in Bangkok (including those not pictured). Thanks for making this past year a memorable one.

2007-06-22T07:35:00.000+07:00

HAPPY ANNIVERSARY TO ME

Today (June 22), marks the one-year anniversary of our arrival in Bangkok. Sometimes, it seems like we've been here forever. Others, it feels like the time has just flown by.

To commemorate this momentous occasion, I am posting a bunch of random family images that never really fit into my standard blog entries (the pics don't match the text).

It's kind of weird to think that it's been a whole year since I've set foot on American soil. At times when going through something like this, you kind of step back and think about the daily routines and simple things in life that you take for granted.

With that in mind, it's been one year since I've:

Seen my parents, sister, family and friends.

Worked for "The Man."

Used a garbage disposal.

Seen real snow.

Worn a long-sleeve casual shirt, sweater or outdoor jacket (I've had to put on a dress shirt and suit coat only a handful of times here).

Done yard work.

Driven a car in actual traffic.

Had to turn the heat on at home or use the fireplace.

Watched the Red Wings or Lions on TV.

Pumped gas.

Eaten at Taco Bell, White Castle, Arbys and Wendys.

Swam in a lake.

Attended a sporting event.

Went a day without sweating profusely.

Watched "The Daily Show with John Stewart."

Had to carry around a set of keys.

Celebrated Thanksgiving or Easter (we kind of skipped those holidays last year).

Played poker.

Drank water from the tap.

Gone a whole day without realizing how truly lucky my family and I are to have this experience.

2007-05-20T13:38:00.000+07:00

FARANG RESTAURANT REVIEW: NANA BURGER

One of my ongoing quests here in the Land of Smiles is the Pursuit of the Perfect Patty (aka: finding Bangkok's Best Burger). I mentioned this challenge to my friend Dennis, a transplanted Canadian who has lived here for over ten years. He told me I needed to go to Nana Burger – a simple food cart located on the street right in front of Nana Plaza. He even told me that he has ridden on the back of a motorcycle clear across town just to get one of these burgers. That was a good enough endorsement for me, so I decided that a trip to Nana Burger now topped my list of priorities.

I never eat from the food carts for a couple of reasons. First of all, I don’t really care for Thai food and secondly, I am concerned about hygiene at those places. I’m sure most of them OK, since one cannot walk down a single sidewalk in Bangkok without having to avoid numerous food carts and the throngs of customers who patronize them, but I just don’t feel like taking chances with food I don’t really care much for in the first place. But the opportunity to consume the best burger in Bangkok was too tempting, so I was willing to take a chance.

I went there a few times for lunch, but could not find the Nana Burger food cart. I called Dennis back and he informed me that it was only open at night. I thought that this made perfect sense, considering that Nana Plaza is one of Bangkok’s notorious “night spots.” Unfortunately for me, I don’t really get out much in the evening, especially to places like Nana Plaza, so this was going to put a serious damper on my quest for Bangkok’s Best Burger.

Finally, I made some time one night and found the Nana Burger cart. It was a pretty simple set up with a sign listing prices and toppings (bacon, egg, etc.) and there was a small line of customers. This helped put my mind at ease and made me think that since it was at least popular, it was probably a safe place to eat as well.

I decided to get a bacon cheeseburger, but I was a bit disappointed when I noticed that the patties were just pre-packaged ones from the grocery store. Even the buns were just a standard brand that I could buy myself at grocery stores like Tops or Tesco. I’m not sure what I expected, but I kind of secretly hoped that these burgers would be made from some highly classified recipe that would send me to beef-nirvana, but it didn’t really work out that way. Instead, I got something I could pretty much whip up myself at home. Still, the burger was pretty good for what it was, and they did top it with fresh lettuce, onion and tomato. With that being said, I don’t think that it will change anyone’s perception about the type of meat market that Nana Plaza really is

2007-05-10T14:35:00.000+07:00

SWIMMING WITH THE SHARKS

One thing I've always wanted to do is scuba dive. Despite all of the lakes in Michigan (where I grew up), I just never got around to it, but when we made this move I promised myself that I would make this dream a reality. Now, nearly 11 months later, I have finally started the process.

Of course, my main goal is dive in the open water and the amazing coral reefs of Thailand (and other parts of the Asia Pacific region) should offer me some great opportunities to do just that. But when I found out about a unique program right here in downtown Bangkok, it just seemed too cool to pass up.

"Dive with the Sharks" is sponsored by Planet Scuba and takes place at Siam Ocean World, the world class aquarium located in the basement of the Siam Paragon mall. This program promises to put you face to face with sea creatures like the Leopard Shark (seen here with several silver fishes known as Bigeye Trevally)...

And the Grey Nurse Shark (as it is known in Australia)...

This predator is also known as the Sand Tiger Shark in the U.S. and the Spotted Ragged Tooth Shark in Africa.

The aquarium is also home to many other fish including this Spotted Eagle Ray.

What is interesting about this program is that anyone can do it, even if they've never dived before. Planet Scuba offers an introductory course geared toward first time divers and they provide all of the training and equipment. For me, this was the perfect situation because I got to sample the diving experience for less than half the cost of what it would be for me to take a full-blown certification course.

The training session took place at a local pool with my instructor Pam, whose 11 years of diving experience is evident in the clear, relaxed way she teaches her students. Personally, I wasn't too nervous about diving for the first time, but for those who are, an instructor with a style like Pam's would help to calm anyone's nerves.

The introductory program covered basic diving concepts like breathing underwater, buoyancy, mask de-fogging, ear and mask equalization, underwater swimming, regulator recovery, hand signal recognition, the use of the air gauge and a few other things. This may seem like a lot to comprehend at once, but I didn't find it too overwhelming.

The training session took about an hour and a half and when it was finished I felt I had enough information for my first dive.

I met Pam at Siam Ocean World two days later. After a brief re-cap of the basics, we put on our equipment and wet suits and got in the tank. It only took me a minute or two to get the hang of it, which is good because before too long I was swimming side by side with sharks that were as big as me (and some were bigger)...

When I told people that I was going to do this, most asked if I was crazy or afraid. The answer to both questions was "no", or else I wouldn't have even attempted the dive. Some of my wife's co-workers even wondered why a guy that is married to a lawyer would want to swim with some sharks on his free time (haha). Honestly, I was more worried about letting my kids hang out with a bunch of full grown tigers (seem my blog entry from March 8).

It seems to me that ever since "Jaws" sharks have gotten a bit of a bad rap (c'mon people, that movie came out 32 years ago). Of course I wouldn't want to swim with a Great White, but the ones that reside in the aquarium didn't frighten me a bit. I have learned enough over the years that despite their fearsome appearance, shark species like the Grey Nurse are relatively placid unless provoked. I was told not to touch the sharks and to keep out of their way, and I was only too happy to follow this simple, yet obvious rule.

My shark dive took place on a Sunday, which was also a holiday weekend in Thailand, and for that reason Siam Ocean World was packed that day. The Thai patrons on hand seemed pretty excited to watch my dive, but for me it was cool to see my family and some friends waving at me from the other side of the glass.

Honestly, the experience was a lot of fun, but it really left me yearning to take a full-blown class and dive in the open water. I think it was a good idea to scuba dive in a tank for my first time because it was a contained environment and for some reason that made me feel safer and more at ease if something were to go wrong (despite the fact that I was constantly surrounded by about 30-40 sharks). Thankfully everything was OK, although I did have some brief buoyancy issues a few times.

Overall, I had a great time and was glad I got the chance to have this thrilling adventure. The dive was supposed to last about half an hour, but I think we were in the tank for about 45 minutes. To me, the time went quickly and I would do the whole thing all over again if given the chance.

I have no idea if there are aquariums in the U.S. that offer a chance to swim with sharks in a public aquarium, but I'm sure there has to be somewhere in the world where you can have an opportunity like this one. But to me, this seemed like an "Only in Bangkok" type of situation and given my curiosity about scuba-diving, I would have been foolish not to try it at least once.

For more information about this program, please visit www.sharkdive.org

Special thanks to my friend Anselm and to the staff at Planet Scuba for the pictures.

2007-04-17T20:52:00.000+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: A SNORKELING TRIP IN KRABI

You can't visit an island paradise like Krabi without doing a little snorkeling, so the other day we booked a trip, set out on the high seas and enjoyed the scenery...

Our first stop was the Phra Nang Cave. No snorkeling here, just some sight-seeing. As we approached our destination the guide on the boat started to explain a bit about the Cave to me:

"Mister, inside the Cave you will see a lot of ________" (he used some Thai word that I can't remember). "Do you know what that is Mister?"

"No I don't," I replied.

"It is something that everyone wants and prays for. You too Mister. When you see it you will understand. If you don't understand, I will explain it to you. OK Mister?"

"OK," I answered confused yet curious.

As we approached the cave, there was indeed a large throng of people there. My kids had no interest in it, they just wanted to swim and play on the beach, but I had to check the place out.

When I got there, I found men and women praying to...

A huge shrine of wooden phalluses!

Upon further research, I have learned that Phra Nang means princess and this cave is believed by local fisherman to be the home of some mythical sea princess. People come here to pray for fertility and make offerings to the gods (apparently a can of Fanta will suffice).

There were piles and piles of these - er - objects - everywhere!

I guess people really want to be fertile in this part of the world.

After I had enough, I made my way back to the beach and was confronted with tons of these washed up sea creatures that resembled large, gooey contact lenses. I had never seen anything like this before, but I assume they are some sort of jellyfish.

Back on the boat (I didn't bother to get the official explanation about the contents of the cave), we made a pass at the famous Chicken Island - so named because it kind of resembles a chicken. (My daughter Julia asked "If it's supposed to be a chicken, then why doesn't it have that red thing on it head?")

Our next stop was Tup Island, where we hung out at the beach some more (still no snorkeling yet)...

And mingled with some of the locals...

Like all wild monkeys I've encountered here in Thailand, these guys appeared mean and aggressive and we kept our distance.

We ended the day on Poda Island and did manage to finally snorkel. That part of the trip was a bit of a disappointment - the coral reefs weren't too colorful and we didn't see as many fish as we have in the past.
Still, a day out on the water beats a day on land just about any day in my book...

2007-04-16T16:02:00.000+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: SONGKRAN FESTIVAL IN KRABI

Songkran (aka the Thai New Year) is celebrated every year from April 13-15. Since we were on holiday, we got to witness some traditional festivities as provided by the Central Krabi Resort. This included a procession of the Buddha, music and costumed dancers.

One of the main themes of Songkran is the cleansing of the soul and spirit. People are supposed to pour water on their elders and wash Buddha images out of respect and in hopes of gaining good luck and fortune. Over the years, this has evolved into a reason to stage public water fights complete with squirt guns, garden hoses and giant buckets of H2O. It's all in good fun and most people seem to get into it.

We made our way over to the nearby resort town of Ao Nang to do some shopping and check out the Songkran scene. I personally didn't mind getting squirted since April is so hot over here. It was kind of refreshing and fun. I did object to some old bat from Australia sneaking up behind me and pouring an entire bottle of water down my back, but I didn't get too worked up over it.

The scene was kind of wild, with pickup trucks driving by filled with would-be water-assassins. Notice the giant blue bucket of water in the next pic:

You can see that the pavement in these pictures is pretty wet, but this is all from the splashing and water throwing jollification (there was no rainfall that day). Also, check out the adults in the background with their giant squirt guns. This is the kind of holiday that kids and grown-ups can all enjoy, especially in the sweltering heat.

No matter where you turned, their was an water-toting assailant waiting in the wings with an itchy trigger finger.

Another Songkran tradition is to wipe plaster on the faces of people you meet. This is derived from facts that monks use plaster to mark blessings. We ran into many people who were only too happy to smear our faces with this stuff.

All in all, it was a good time, but I'm sure Songkran was downright crazy in Bangkok. As I was getting drenched in Ao Nang, I couldn't help but have visions of a cadre of old male Farangs riding elephants, brandishing squirt guns and water balloons, and attacking young Thai women in a drunken frenzy. I'm sure it was a site to behold.

Oh well, maybe next year...

2007-04-14T16:37:00.000+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: CENTRAL KRABI BAY RESORT

Right this second, we are on vacation in Krabi, (located in the southern part of Thailand) and staying at the luxurious Central Krabi Bay Resort. This place is located within its own private bay and only accessible by boat. As we motored toward it two days ago, I knew we were in for a special trip.

The entire resort is situated amid soaring limestone peaks and tons of green foliage. The effect is stunning, as is the view from the beach.

Everywhere you look, there is something to take your breath away. Hands down, this is the nicest resort I've ever had the pleasure of going to (at least from an ambiance standpoint).

The beach is nice, with clear water and white sand, but why swim in it where there is a magnificent pool nearby? I can do without the saltwater and sand in my swim trunks (but our kids still prefer the ocean).

Yes, there is something for everyone here, even for our son Max. No, he is not constipated in the following picture, he is just at the age where he thinks it's funny to make a goofy face and ruin a photograph while the rest of his family is trying to capture a nice digital moment.

I contemplated cropping him out of the picture, but left him in there in hopes that the public humiliation will inspire him to stop doing this in the future. If you agree with me that he looks completely ridiculous, then feel free to leave a comment below stating that and I will see that he gets it. Maybe he will listen to someone else, because he sure doesn't pay attention to me when it comes to these types of things...

It should be noted that an island paradise such as this does come with its disadvantages, as this sign points out. Thankfully, the weather was pretty decent while we stayed (just some minor rain showers).

If you are looking for an amazing vacation spot in Thailand, then look no further than the Central Krabi Bay Resort. I can think of worse places to spend a holiday.

2007-04-04T15:51:00.000+07:00

DEAD MAN'S PARTY: THE SIRIRAJ MEDICAL MUSEUM

WARNING:

THE FOLLOWING BLOG ENTRY CONTAINS IMAGES THAT SOME PEOPLE MAY FIND GRAPHIC AND DISTURBING.

PLEASE CONTINUE READING AT YOUR OWN RISK.

REMEMBER, YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED...

The Siriraj Medical Museum is described as a faculty of Medicine for Siriraj Mahidol University. It is located in a hospital near the Grand Palace and Chao Phraya River, which makes it quite an excursion from the rest of downtown Bangkok. Still, if you don't have a weak stomach and are a looking for a truly unique destination, it's kind of worth the trip.

4o Baht (a little more than one dollar) will gain you entrance into the museum's six departments: the Ellis Pathological Museum, the Ouay Ketusingh Museum of History of Thai Medicine, the Congdon Anatomical Museum, the Sood Sangvichien Prehistoric Museum & Laboratory, the Parasitology Museum and the Songkran Niyomsane Forensic Medicine Museum. The last one is by far the most popular and notorious.

This is the place you want to go to see photos of car crash, train wreck and burn victims (among other fatal accidents). If you were ever curious about what a skull with a bullet hole looks like, then a trip to the Forensic Medicine Museum is what you have been waiting for.

Was the skull too tame for you?

Wanna see what an actual severed head with a bullet lodged in it looks like?

Well if you do, gaze upon a cranium which has been neatly sawed in half and put it on display in two formaldehyde-filled square jars!

If that's not enough, other results of decapitations are also on display for your viewing pleasure at the Forensics Medical Museum!

Along with various other appendages (some with tattoos!)

And now for something completely different...

Are you a fan of abnormally large hearts?

Cirrhosis of the liver?

Or blackened lungs? Then the Forensic Medicine Museum is right up your alley!

The Museum is also famous for housing the mummified remains of Si Quey, a serial killer who gained notoriety in Thailand during the 1950s for raping, killing and then cannibalizing his victims. From what I've heard about this guy, he makes Hannibal Lector look like the Easter Bunny. After he was hung and mummified, his body was brought here as a grim reminder of what people capable of such grisly acts can look forward to if they are caught (there are a few other similar corpses of other rapists and murderers close by). The Forensic Medicine Museum is sometimes even referred to as "Si Quey's Place."

Right around the corner from Si Quey is another area with plenty of information and a life size diorama of people treating horrible wounds caused by Thailand's recent tsunami disaster.

One thing I didn't take pictures of were the numerous corpses of fetuses and toddlers displayed at the Museum that were the results of things like miscarriages, abortions, drownings and other tragic misfortunes. As the father of three, I just couldn't bring myself to record these kinds images. All of these displays are surrounded by things like candy and small toys, apparently left as a tribute by other Museum visitors.

Right next door to the Forensics Museum is one dedicated to parasitology, where one can go to read up on the dust mites that most likely inhabit your mattress, see photos of someone with spaghetti-like worms coming out of their butt and an actual preserved scrotum (and accompanying photo) from someone who was afflicted with elephantiasis. This has got to be one of the worst conditions anyone could have the misfortune of living with.

In summary, there are a few reasons that I can think of to visit the Siriraj Medical Museum:

1) You are a medical student or plan on getting a job at a hospital, morgue, funeral home or some other location that could potentially involve extensive gore and guts. I assume that the main purpose of the Museum is for educational reasons rather than for the sheer exploitation of severed body parts. There has to be someone out there learning something from this collection of macabre artifacts to justify its existence in an actual hospital.

2) You are a fan of morbid or simply bizarre things and are tired of searching the Internet for autopsy and crime scene photos. Your favorite movies may include films like "The Texas Chainsaw Massacre," "Dawn of the Dead," and "Saw III."

3) You are someone who abuses things like alcohol and tobacco and are curious about what your internal organs could possibly look like.

4) You are someone who lives in Bangkok, writes a blog and are tired of visiting wats, temples and other cultural places for your material.

Personally, I would fall into the last category. I really have no real interest in this stuff, but enough people in town have told me that it was a weird place to go, so I thought it was worth the trip. Unfortunately, I had to go twice because I lost the photos from my first excursion about a month ago. I spent ten minutes there today, snapping pictures (you're not supposed to, but no one was around to enforce this policy) and then was stuck in traffic for two hours on the way home. Oh, the lengths I will go to for my art...

That being said, the place didn't really creep me out too much. I didn't have nightmares about it the first time and don't think I will this time. I can handle this sort of thing although it's not really my cup of tea. It's somewhere that can inspire a plethora of emotions depending on the personality of one who chooses to visit. For me, these feeling amounted to nothing more than ones of numbness and indifference.

2007-03-09T07:58:00.001+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: THE BRIDGE OVER THE RIVER KWAI & KANCHANABURI WAR CEMETERY

When most people think of the "Bridge Over the River Kwai", they recall the famous film starring Alec Guiness and William Holden or the book written by Pierre Boulle. Like many historical movies (and novels), that one was a fictional story loosely based on fact and when you visit the actual Bridge, it looks like nothing like the one you've seen on TV (and given the ending of that film, how could it?)

The fate of the actual Bridge did differ from the one in the movie. In reality, the Bridge was bombed by Allied planes and the structure that remains today is merely a reconstruction (the curved pieces are still original though).

The area around the Bridge is nothing like the movie either. In my mind I had visions of the vast jungle that was depicted in the film, but when we got there, that was just not the case. The whole area is a city center and very touristy. There are a lot of restaurants, places to buy souvenirs and other stuff like that.

You can actually walk across the Bridge, but it's safer to stay in the middle, because the sides have huge, gaping holes where one could actually fall through. This wasn't the greatest bridge for a bunch of kids to cross, but since we just let them sit on a bunch of full grown tigers the day before, we were still feeling a bit adventurous.

Every once in awhile, an actual train would cross the Bridge and you would have to stand to the side to avoid being flattened.

Thankfully, there are still a few things around the Bridge to remind visitors that this is a war memorial and not just some tourist trap.

The Bridge was an OK place to visit, if for no other reason to say that you've been there. You could never say that about the other place made famous by author Pierre Boulle (that would be the Planet of the Apes).

Down the road from the Bridge is the Kanchnaburi War Cemetery. Like other similar places I've visited in the past (Arlington National Cemetary for example), this is a somber location where one can go and reflect on the tremendous sacrifices that others made during times of war.

The cemetery was a gift from the people of Thailand to the countries whose sailors, soldiers and military pilots died here.

While the Cemetery seems large enough, the 6982 Allied prisoners buried here only represents a small portion of the 100,000 or so men who gave their lives for the cause of freedom in this region.

The inscriptions on the gravestones are heartbreaking and one can only imagine how the families of the men buried here felt during this time. I don't want to get overly political, but it is sad to think that cemeteries such as these will still be necessary to honor the brave men and women fighting in the current war. You would think that after 50-plus years, the people in charge would find a better way, but that just doesn't seem to be the case.

There are many graves for unknown soldiers as well. So sad...

A trip to Kanchnaburi and the Bridge over the River Kwai just isn't complete without a visit to the Cemetery as well. Even if you spend just a short time there, it really helps put World War II (and the idea of war in general) in the proper perspective.

2007-03-08T18:41:00.000+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: HOUSES OF THE HOLY: WAT PA LUANGA BUA YANNASAMPANNO FOREST MONASTERY (THE TIGER TEMPLE)

Located in the Thai province of Kanchanaburi, Wat Pa Luanga Bua Yannasampanno is a monastery dedicated to both Buddhism and the conservation of wildlife.

Instead of trying to pronounce the actual name of this place, most people just call it the Tiger Temple, as it's the home to seventeen full-grown tigers. Seven were orphans rescued from poachers in the wild and the other ten were born and breed at the temple. The tigers seen here are native to Thailand, Laos, Burma, Cambodia, Vietnam, Malaysia and Southeast China.

For Baht 300 apiece, you can visit the Tiger Temple and have your pictures taken with their inhabitants. I was a little leary about the whole process, but I know many people who've done it without incident, so for the sake of this blog, it seemed like a worthwhile trip.

The tigers appear pretty relaxed, and it is said that this is because they have been reared with compassion by monks and are used to interaction with humans. The fact that they are naturally nocturnal animals hanging out in the blazing heat, is another factor that supposedly contributes to their calm demeanor. Temple literature claims that no one has ever been attacked by the tigers since its inception.

The monastery was built in 1994 by Abbot Pra Acharn Phoosit (Chan) Khantitharo. On the day we were there, he was on hand to ensure that our daughter didn't become lunch (or at the very least, a light snack).

All proceeds received at the Temple are going towards a project to build a new 12-acre home for the tigers that will more closely resemble their natural forest environment. This new enclosure will be used for rehabilitating the next generation of cubs prior to their release back to the forest where they belong.

The current generation of tigers at the monestary will never be released back into the wild because they are too familiar with humans and have lost the ability to hunt and feed themselves. They are destined to spend the rest of their days living in peace at Tiger Temple.

The cost of this project is at least 20 million Baht, and the monastery still needs funds to complete it. Anyone interested in helping out with this cause should visit www.tigertemple.org

We didn't spend too much time at the Tiger Temple. First of all, it was just too hot the day we were there and the place has inadequate areas for shade. Secondly (and most importantly), we felt it was just better to get in, take some photos, and get out. Despite the claims of the monks at Tiger Temple, you just never know with wild animals, especially ones of this size. Now we can say that we did it (and have the pics to prove it) and never have to worry about going back again.

2007-03-03T09:48:00.000+07:00

PUT ME IN THE ZOO

As a family, we've been to a lot of zoos over the years. When it comes down to it, they are all basically the same, but the kids like to go and never resist when we suggest another zoo excursion.

The Dusit Zoo in Bangkok has a lot of the same animals that you can see in pretty much every other major zoo on the planet, so I am not going to waste space here with pictures of elephants, lions, giraffes and monkeys.

This is the first time (at least that I can recall) that I have seen a hyena in person, so that fact alone made the trip worthwhile for me.

These really are disgusting, hideous creatures (check out that drool). The head on this one was bigger than mine and the huge teeth made it downright ferocious-looking.

The zoo was a bit run down and several of the exhibits had trash in them from careless visitors. It's really kind of sad to see a majestic creature like this orangutan with a piece of plastic hanging out of its mouth.

It was another hot, humid day in Bangkok on the day we were at the Dusit Zoo, so many of the animals there seemed totally wiped out and were just listless or asleep.

It should be noted that this lack of activity wasn't confined to animal exhibits.

One interesting phenomenon in Thailand for a white family is the fascination that Thai people have with our kids. Everywhere we go - to the mall, grocery story, restaurants, Dream World and the zoo - people are always looking at our kids and trying to take their picture.

You would think that with things lemurs and langurs around, they would have better subjects for their photo albums, but this doesn't seem to be the case. I guess the citizens of Thailand just like collecting images of kids with fair skin and fair hair. Here's a picture of a lady taking a picture of my son with her cell phone:

You can't really tell, but the lady in the striped shirt is videotaping my daughter Julia looking at a crocodile (not the crocodile itself). I'm sure that will make for some fascinating viewing back home.

My kids all react to this differently to this situation. Max (age 8) doesn't really care to be made a spectacle of and usually does his best to make sure the photo he is appearing in doesn't turn out. Julia (age 5) will feign indifference whenever someone tries to snap her picture, as if the whole act is beneath her. Olivia (age 2) loves the extra attention and is never shy about posing for strangers.

As a parent, I have mixed feelings about this custom. I think it's kind of strange. Based on the extra attention we receive, it's almost like hanging out with a bunch of celebrities. As long as people are polite about it (some even have the decency to ask for permission before snapping a photo), I guess I don't really mind, but when they start touching my kids it does kind of bug me. I think the next time I see some stranger pinching one of my children on the cheek or on the arm, I might be tempted to pinch them right back.

2007-02-26T10:04:00.000+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: HOUSES OF THE HOLY IN NAKHON NAYOK (PART II)

Just when I thought our family had been all "wat-ed" out, we happened upon one of the most unique structures I've ever seen. The place was called Wat Sampran (also known as the Dragon Temple) and it's a 16-story red tower with a statue of a dragon wound around it four times.

The whole temple complex is a cluster of crazy statuary, most of it seemingly Chinese-inspired. The effect is almost dizzying.

There are heads based on the characters of the Chinese zodiac (2007 is the Year of the Golden Pig in case you hadn't heard).

I'm really not sure what all of this stuff meant, but it was still fun to look at. Some English language signs or guides would have been helpful, but I guess they are not really a priority in this part of Thailand.

Even the floor was decorated with interesting animal imagery.

Supposedly touching the dragon's foot will bring you good luck, so we couldn't pass up that chance. I don't recall anything truly great happening since this trip, so I'm not sure if it worked (but nothing horrible has happened either).

You can climb up the tower, but the only way to do so is by using the stairs. The place was equipped with an elevator, but it didn't work.

The journey seemed a little imposing, but how often does one get to say they climbed a tower surrounded by a dragon?

The staircase was kind of disgusting. It was dirty, dusty and the floor was covered with mice droppings. The fact that we had to remove our shoes (like you have to do in all religious places in Thailand) made the climb even more unpleasant.

Some of the floors had statues and things to look at (but not all of them). Again, I have no idea what these things represent, but I assume they are based on some Chinese legend.

Once at the top, you get a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside...

A more traditional wat located next door...

And some other building shaped like a giant turtle (further proof that this was one of the most bizarre places we've ever visited).

The top of the tower had more intricate details...

A view of the dragon's tail...

And a close-up of its head.

As far as temples go, Wat Sampran was a pretty fun place to hang out...

Provided you're not afraid of heights (don't look down if you are).

Once we climbed back down, we wandered around the rest of the grounds and saw a giant elephant statue...

And the turtle building (there was nothing too exciting inside).

Overall, I found the place pretty fascinating. My only complaint was that the inside of the tower was pretty run down. If they could get it cleaned up a bit and have something to look at on every floor, Wat Sampran would truly be one of the "must-see" places in all of Thailand (I would still recommend it pretty strongly though).

2007-02-25T08:51:00.001+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: HOUSES OF THE HOLY IN NAKHON NAYOK (PART I)

The province of Nakhonn Nayok is located just over 50 km. from Bangkok, so a little day trip there is not a massive undertaking. The place is home to a few interesting religious attractions that make for a worthwhile (and peaceful) little excursion for a family interested in getting out of over-crowded, over-polluted Bangkok.

The massive Phra Pathom Chedi is the tallest Buddhist monument in the world (127 m) and one of the most sacred religious places in all of Thailand. To me, it was reminiscent of Bangkok's own Golden Mount (see previous entry from last summer).

The chedi was originally constructed in the 6th Century, but time took its toll on that original monument. Kings Rama IV and Rama V oversaw its reconstruction, and today it stands proudly and is covered in glazed orange tiles imported from China.

Near the base of the spire is this Buddha image that peers out from behind a window. I have no idea what its significance is, but it seemed kind of important.

Like every other wat I have visited, the temple complex is home to some impressive statuary, including a golden reclining Buddha...

And some traditional warrior and guard images.

The complex itself isn't too large, so a trip here can be short and sweet if you wish. On the other hand, the Chedi is so massive, you can still see it in the rearview mirror long after you've departed Phra Pathom.

2007-02-17T08:23:00.000+07:00

FARANG RESTAURANT REVIEW: FOGO VIVO

Herbivores beware! Fogo Vivo is one restaurant you'll want to avoid! Sure, they have a nice salad bar, but the whole experience is one big Meat-A-Pa-Looza, and for carnivores like me, that's one step short of Heaven.

Fogo Vivo is described as a Brazilian Churrascaria, which roughly translates to Brazilian barbecue (the name Fogo Vivo translates to "Live Fire"). For this particular establishment, that means an endless parade of rotisserie-cooked meat delivered to your table on skewers - beef, pork, chicken, lamb, duck, shrimp and salmon. There's also vegetables, potatoes, and finger food like bread and French fries.

The way this works is they give you a small card with a green side (to indicate "Go") and a red side (for "Stop"). When you keep the card turned up to the green side, the meat keeps coming. If you feel you need a break, you flip it over and show red.

Another way to take a break from eating is to get up out of your seat and boogie with your friends and a couple of lively Brazilian dancers to some fun Tropicalia tunes. This is one area where this restaurant differed from other ethnic places around town - the women were authentic to the establishment, not just Thai girls dressed in Brazilian attire.

And so it went throughout the night: the waitstaff brought the meat and I consumed it (all but the salmon - I'm not much of a fish fan).

When it was all over, I flipped my card over to the red side to indicate that I had surrendered (at least with the meat), but I still had room for two trips to the dessert table.

If you like cooked animal flesh combined with a fun atmosphere, you really can't go wrong in Bangkok with Fogo Vivo.

2007-02-15T07:16:00.000+07:00

A BRUSH WITH ANCIENT THAI CULTURE

I attended a formal event last weekend and in an effort to make it less stuffy (as these things often are), the organizers jazzed things up with a few touches of Thai culture from the past.

Puppetry has been an artform in Thailand for centuries, but started to die out in the 20th Century. In 1982, the government enlisted the late puppet master Khun Sakorn Yangkhiawsod to help revive small puppet theaters. Khun Sakorn, who was better known as Joe Louis (a pretty famous name if you're from Detroit like me), trained his family (including nine children and fourteen grandchildren) in the art of puppetry. Unfortunately, a fire eventually destroyed their home and all but one of their puppets, but an outpouring of donations from the public helped them get back on their feet again.

Each puppet requires three people to manipulate it and the stories they are featured in are all from ancient Thai legends and literature. The Suan Lum Night Bazaar near Lumphini Park is home to the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre, but I guess they occassionaly work cocktail parties as well.

Khon is a classic drama in Thailand featuring singing, dancing, acrobatics, acting and music, although all of the singing is done offstage because of the elaborate masks the actors wear.

The storyline revolves around the Ramakien, a Thai version of an Indian epic which features nearly 300 different masks divided into five categories: demon, human, celestial, animal and monkey. As you can see, the costumes that they wear are elaborate and beautiful and perfectly compliment black tie evening attire.

2007-02-04T17:35:00.000+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: THE HARD ROCK CAFE HOTEL IN PATTAYA

Located on the Gulf of Thailand, the resort town of Pattaya has a notorious reputation as an adult playground. I've heard a lot of stories about this place and have kind been wanting to check it out stictly for the freakshow that supposedly goes on there every night. These kinds of activities are not something that really appeals to me, but as someone who enjoys people watching it seemed like it would be good for a few laughs. That being said, I was not about to drag my wife and three kids two hours away to Pattaya strictly for this reason.

But then we started hearing about the Hard Rock Cafe Hotel in Pattaya and how much it appeal it has for families. After talking it over for a bit, we made plans with some friends (and their two young girls) to go check it out.

Indeed, Hard Rock Pattaya did have a lot of things for kids to do. The main attraction there for youngsters is the massive pool complete with an inflatable trampoline and water slide. There are also a lot of poolside activities including water volleyball, basketball and a band to liven things up with their brand of Smashmouth and Black Eyed Peas covers.

A man-made beach is connected to the pool for children to frolick in. It really beats going to the actual Pattaya beach that is over-flowing with high-mileage hookers and old, shirtless, European men.

Like any Hard Rock Cafe restaurant, there is plenty of other rock and roll memorbilia on display in Pattaya, making this hotel is the ideal place to go if you want to get a picture of your kid with Frank Zappa's guitar:

George Harrison's clothes:

Or Weird Al Yankovic's accordian:

Other items on display here included Mick Jagger's cape:

Onstage suits from James Brown and Madonna:

Guitars from Prince, Eric Clapton, Sting and members of KISS and the Stray Cats:

And even a pair of blue suede shoes once worn by Carl Perkins:

The rock decor theme kind of carried over to the rooms, where each one had either a large portrait of Sting, Tina Turner, or David Bowie with Diana Ross:

Unfortunately, the halls of the hotel were bland, with nothing adorning them at all. You would think that they could slap some pictures, posters or gold records on every wall to really jazz the place up.

Each floor does have a huge mural of either the Beach Boys or the Beatles that greets you when you get off of the elevator, but they are kind of done up in a cheesy style that this combination rock music/art snob found a bit unappealing.

One great things for kids at Hard Rock Pattaya is the 'Lil Rock Kid's Club. For Baht 600 a day, you can drop of a kid for 8 hours and they get lunch, two snacks and can participate in a bunch of activities like painting and jewelry making. They also have a Playstation and tons of DVDs and books to keep the little ones occupied. This whole set up is pretty convenient for parents who want to drop their kids off for awhile to explore seedy Pattaya and it really is a good deal, especially coming from a place that doesn't even offer free wireless Internet service to their guests and grossly overcharges for beers.

The restaurant here is like every other Hard Rock Cafe I've ever been to (Bangkok, Detroit, Chicago, Orlando, Paris, and Tokyo) in both in style and food selection. It's loud and laid back, which makes it the perfect place for families with hordes of obnoxious kids to descend on.

The one activity that the folks at Hard Rock Pattaya real hangs their hats is their Beach Foam X parties on Saturdays. The first one takes place at 5:00 - 6:30 and is only open to hotel guests and really geared towards kids.

Basically what they do during this event is section off an area by the pool and start to fill it up with bubble bath foam while blasting loud techno music.

The kids really loved it as it was something weird and different for them and they got to yell and scream as much as they wanted during the whole experience.

There's another version of the Beach Foam X Party for adults at 9:30 in the evening, but the concept of foaming up with the huge mobs of Russian clientele at the hotel wasn't really that appealing. Instead, we managed to take that stroll down the main Pattaya drag for about an hour. It pretty much lived up to its reputation in a depressing way, but it didn't put a damper on the good times we had the rest of the weekend. At the very least we can say we treated our family to some good, clean fun (literally) in down and dirty Pattaya.

2007-01-27T17:33:00.000+07:00

FARANG RESTAURANT REVIEW: SENIOR PICO AND CHARLEY BROWN'S

Mexican food is quite possibly my favorite cuisine in the whole world. I used to love going to the Mexicantown district in downtown Detroit and my favorite restaurant there was a place called Xochimilco. God, do I miss that place...

So it was only a matter of time before I started searching for a suitable replacement here in Bangkok. After asking around, two names came up the most: Senior Pico (located in the Rembrandt Hotel) and Charley Brown's (Sukhumvit Soi 11).

The first place we tried was Senior Pico.

The atmosphere was nice, but had a kind of "corporate Mexican" feel to it.

The staff was friendly and there was a band ("Los Lamas") on hand that played authentic Mexican tunes in Spanish. They were a bit loud, but I thought that was still a nice touch.

I ordered my standard favorite: a beef burrito. I realize that this is not the most adventurous choice on the menu, but when trying a new Mexican place, I always order one just to set the standard.

They did have fancier fare for order - like this meat on a skewer that my friend Greg ordered.

The food was OK, but a bit unspectacular. Maybe my expectations were too high. One thing odd about the place were the selections on the children's menu: Mickey Mouse Burger, Super Mario's Penne Pasta, Spaghetti Pinocchio, Road Runner Chicken, and Senior Pico's Pizza. You would think that they would have kid's versions of tacos, nachos, burritos or chimichangas, but no dice.

Next up was Charley Brown's.

The decor had a down-and-dirty "Route 66" kind of vibe, complete with a vintage gas pump, old cars jutting out of the walls, thousands of old beer cans, and banged up license plates.

I generally like this kind of style, but I have to admit that it usually fits a greasy burger joint more so than a Mexican restaurant.

The food was similar to Senior Picos - a bit commercial - but for some reason I liked it a bit better (and the kid's menu did have tacos, nachos, etc).

It was really a coin flip in regards to which restaurant I preferred. I would give Charley Brown's the slight edge in food (which I guess is the most important factor when deciding where to eat), but the atmosphere was a bit better at Senior Pico.

Neither one measured up to my beloved Xochimilco (at least in my eyes). Maybe that's a bit unfair, but that's how I feel. It should be noted that we did have some Mexican friends (you know, from Mexico) in Detroit and they thought Xochimilco was crap, so I guess it really comes down to what you're used to. If you've lived in Bangkok your entire life, then Senior Pico or Charley Brown's might just be the zenith of Mexican food for you, and that's perfectly OK.

2007-01-21T22:23:00.000+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: HOUSES OF THE HOLY IN AYUTTHAYA

The Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya (or simply Ayutthaya) was the capital of Thailand for 417 years (1350-1767) and was once one of the most majestic cities in Southeast Asia. Located 86 km outside of Bangkok, today it is a historical site populated by crumbling buildings and headless Buddhas (the effects of both earthquakes and invasions). A visit there makes for a great day trip and a fascinating glimpse into Thailand's past.

Wat Phra Si Sanphet & the Grand Palace

During the height of the Ayutthaya Period, this site was the grandest palace complex in Asia, but it was eventually burnt down when the Kingdom was invaded.

Wat Mahatat

This temple is home to one of the most famous images in all of Thailand, the head of a Buddha image overgrown with the roots of a fig tree:

This city temple was the site of many royal rituals in the past and the structures reflect the changing architectural trends of the time.

Wat Chaiwatthanaram

Located on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, this wat remains in good condition (compared to some of the others we visited). It was built in 1630 by King Prasat Thong in the style of Cambodia's famed Angkor Wat to celebrate the King's military victory of Thailand's neighboring country.

Wat Yai Chaimongkhon

The tourist bureau in Ayutthaya lists this as the most popular site in the old Kingdom. It his home to a white recling Buddha:

The temple has great significance for Thai people as it was built during the reign of King Naresuan the Great to commemorate an epic battle that saw him riding an elephant into battle to defeat an invading Burmese prince.

The main structure here is an octagonal-based, bell-shaped stupa that one can climb for some majestic views.

Wat Phananchoeng

Built 26 years before Ayutthaya was established (1325), this temple is home to Thailand's tallest gilded Buddha. Unfortunately, the statue was undergoing extensive renovations when we were there, so we were unable to take a picture of it.

Another thing that makes this monastary stand out is the fact that it is tended to by the local Chinese community. For this reason, the influence of Chinese symbols and architecture can be felt throughout the complex.

It's always interesting to find swastikas in ancient art, and this Chinese Buddha is no exception.

As you can see, we saw many things during our trip to Ayutthaya, but we really just scratched the surface. There is still a lot more to cover, and a trip back to the old Kingdom is definately in our plans.

2007-01-17T11:49:00.000+07:00

GOD VISITS BANGKOK

I love going to rock concerts and I was eagerly anticipating my first one here in the Land of Smiles. I got a little discourged when I noticed that the Rolling Stones never stopped here on their never-ending "Bigger Bang Tour" (which I saw in Detroit in August 2005 and has seemingly visited every city in the world EXCEPT Bangkok since). The Black Eyed Peas were here last summer, but they are not exactly my cup of tea (although my neighbors saw them and raved about the experience).

When I learned back in October that Eric Clapton was coming here, I knew I had to go. I saw Clapton once before, way back in 1988 at the Palace of Auburn Hills outside Detroit. That was a pretty memorable show as Marc Knopfler (from Dire Straits) was a part of his touring band that time around and the late, great Stevie Ray Vaughan made a guest appearance for the last tune.

That time, the set consisted of Clapton and company plowing through a selection of songs littered with greatest hits. On Monday, it was a bit different. At first it seemed like a Derek & The Dominos revival with four of the first five songs coming from the classic album "Layla and Other Assorted Love Songs."

Tell The Truth
Key To The Highway
Got to Get Better in A Little While
Little Wing
Why Does Love Got To Be So Sad?

After that, the whole band left Clapton alone and he sat down and brought out his acoustic guitar for one song. Then the band rejoined him for a few more tunes done in a laid back style:

Driftin' Blues (Clapton Solo Acoustic)
Outside Woman Blues
Nobody Knows You When You're Down and Out
Running On Faith

Next, the band went back to rocking out. The rest of the set leaned heavily on the blues and it wasn't until the last four songs that EC decided to play some tunes that those familiar with his work only from listening to the radio would know:

Motherless Children
Little Queen of Spades
Anyday
Wonderful Tonight
Layla

Encore:

Cocaine
Crossroads

I didn't mind the set. I thought it was amazing and I was in a bit of a trance watching Clapton and the two other young guitarists in his band (Doyle Bramhall II and Derek Trucks) trade licks song after song. If you are a fan of extended guitar solos or just an air-guitar playing wannabe (like myself) then this night was for you. The rest of the band, which included bass player Steve Jordan, drummer Willie Weeks, and Chris Stainton and Tim Carmon on the keys were also given a chance to shine throughout the evening.

I did notice that the acoustics weren't that great at Bangkok's Impact Arena. This was a sentiment echoed on the front page of Tuesday's Bangkok Post:

I honestly expected this, so it didn't bother me too much. At least there were two big screens on both sides of the stage which showed a lot of closeups of the hands of EC and his cohorts blistering the fretboards.

One interesting thing (at least to me) about this show were the tickets. Instead of the standard paper tickets that I am used to, we got little plastic credit card tix with a nice picture of Clapton on the front. This made for a nice little souvenir. I wish all my old concert ticket stubs were like this.

One general note about concert etiquette here in Bangkok: When you go to a rock show and they say "Thank You - Good Night!" for the first time, it doesn't really mean "Thank You - Good Night!" The band usually comes out for at least one more song (in this case two) before the show is really over (this is called "The Encore").

I bring this up because when Clapton said "Thank You - Good Night!" right after "Layla," he and his band exited the stage. I guess this was a cue for the audience to exit their seats as well, and when the band came back, after only a few minutes, a bunch of them were standing right in front of us (we had 2nd row, upper level seat, right in front of the aisleway and railing). This meant that I had to get up and politely ask people to move about 20 times so I could enjoy the last two songs from the comfort of my own seat. Maybe the lack of quality rock shows coming through town hasn't given the fine folks of Bangkok enough training when it comes to attending them.

All in all it was a great night. I have been fortunate to see many legends of rock guitar on stage since I started going to concerts (Jimmy Page, Pete Townsend, Keith Richards, Eddie Van Halen, David Gilmour, Prince, Kurt Cobain, The Edge, Jack White, Ace Frehley, Angus Young, Dave Navarro, Steve Vai, Joe Satriani, Vernon Reid, etc.) and have enjoyed them all. But on this night, Clapton, proved that he's still the Guitar God and it was great to see him and his two young disciples delivering a slice of Rock Heaven to an adoring Bangkok crowd.

2007-01-17T09:46:00.001+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: KHAO WANG PALACE IN PHETCHABURI (A.K.A. MONKEY MOUNTAIN)

On the way home from Hua Hin we stopped in the Thai province of Phetchaburi (located about 120 km. from Bangkok). Although the main city is a combination of ancient and modern elements, the first thing you'll notice about the place is that it's overrun by wild monkeys.

In my previous entry I stated that it's I found it interesting to observe these monkeys in their natural setting (in that case, a National Park). It's also interesting to see them in an unnatural setting as well, at least at first. Then when you see how many of them there are and how aggressive they can be, it gets to be kind of unsettling. Right after I snapped this picture, the monkey started urinating off the roof of this building (missing me by about a foot). At that point, the creatures went from cute to annoying.

The main tourist trap here is the Khao Wang Palace, built by King Rama IV in 1859-60. Located high on a mountain, it is best reached by cable car.

When the short ride up the mountain is completed, you are immediately confronted with - surprise - more monkeys!

We literally had to carry sticks around to keep these things at a safe distance.

Once you get past the monkeys you can start to visit the complex of buildings which includes several palaces, temples, an astronomical observatory and a museum that is home to an impressive collection of ceramics and many other priceless antiques.

The buildings are spread out over three different mountain peaks. When you are at one peak, the others actually look like they are quite far away, but they can be easily reached by a series of paths.

The view of the Phetchaburi province from atop the mountain is also quite impressive.

Despite the historical buildings and spectacular views, the most memorable part of this trip occured at the very end. We took the cable car back down the mountain and exited into a building that had a gift shop, snack bar, etc. We bought our kids some ice cream and in a matter of seconds, a monkey came out of nowhere and snatched our daughter Julia's cone right out of her hand. The whole thing happened so quickly that I didn't get a chance to take a picture (although I could have gotten one of Julia screaming bloody murder if I had thought of it). The whole thing was actually pretty funny, but we were glad that she didn't get bitten or scratched (and we did have to splurge for another ice cream).

2007-01-17T09:33:00.000+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: KHAO SAM ROI YOT NATIONAL PARK & PHRAYA NAKHON CAVE

While in Hua Hin, we took a few day trips. The most memorable one was to the Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park, which is about 63 km. south of Hua Hin. Khao Sam Roi Yot translates to "Mountains of Three Hundred Peaks."

The Park is full of interesting rock formations, forested hills, valleys and beaches.

It is also home to a bunch of wild monkeys. I guess that's not a big deal to the locals, but for me it was interesting to see them in their natural setting.

One of the main attractions at the Park is the Phraya Nakhon Cave (named after the ruler Nakhon Sri Thammarat), but it can only be reached by taking a 1 km. hike up some stoney steps.

On the weekend, a boat can be hired to skip this hike, but unfortunately we were there on a Tuesday. Still, the trek offered some nice views (thankfully there were handrails).

Once we finished this portion of the hike, we had to make our way through some woods to yet another set of steps that led to the cave.

The distance (430 m.) didn't seem like much after the initial hike, but the steps were much steeper, rockier and a lot more treacherous (not unlike the ones Frodo and Sam had to climb in "The Lord of the Rings.")

The climb proved to be a worthwhile one though, as the cave had a feeling of mystery to it...

The highlight here is a royal pavilion built when King Rama V visited the Caves in the 1890s.

One of the chambers of the caves has a collapsed roof which allows the sunlight to pour in (sorry for the lousy photo). I guess that this means that the area is not technically a cave, but who cares?

All in all it was a worthwhile trip and did not require too much physical exertion. If two of my kids can do it (ages 8 and 5), then so can you.

2007-01-02T10:53:00.000+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: EVASON HUA HIN & SIX SENSES SPA

A few weeks back we took a short trip to Pranburi (about 30 km south of the Hua Hin, a thriving resort town in Thailand). We stayed at the Evason Hua Hin, which is part of the Six Senses chain of spas.

The setting is very nice, filled with lush tropical gardens and peaceful lotus ponds.

We stayed in a villa, which was a bit small for a family with three kids, but we managed OK. The whole place had an open air design which I assume was to bring the guests closer to nature.

This included an outdoor shower...

And a private pool.

The open air design ran through the whole resort, including the public restrooms which didn't have ceilings or back walls (the toilets were open and exposed to pond that wrapped around the whole restroom).

I only bring this up because I got locked in the toilet one night but was able to escape by climbing along the edge of the pond through to the urinals.

I noticed a few other people getting locked in while we were there, so hopefully the folks at Six Senses got the situation taken care of.

The resort is situated on the Gulf of Siam, but this doesn't necessarily make for a beach-type experience. Anyone attempting to swim there would be asking for trouble because he waves are rough and crash against a bunch of huge, jagged rocks (there were also a lot of signs warning of jellyfish).

Luckily, a huge pool is nearby for all of your swimming needs. I didn't spend too much time there, because the windy location near the coast made any excursion into the water a frigid one (I never thought I would say that I was cold in Thailand).

Other little details added to the resort's atmosphere, including local musicians who were always on hand to play traditional Thai songs.

I thought the resort was really nice, but not the greatest for families. They did have a kid's club type place to drop off the children, but for the most part it seemed like a place for a romantic getaway for two, rather than a family vacation. As we took our kids to dinner each night, I often felt that I was staging a commercial for contraception for the couples that were actually there for romance.

2006-12-31T14:44:00.000+07:00

THIS HAPPY NEW YEAR IS SPONSORED BY...

The fine folks at Tops grocery store, who this week are giving away free samples of peach-flavored Absolut Vodka.

So tonight at midnight, raise your glass and make a toast to 2007 (but please, don't drink and drive!)

2006-12-31T08:22:00.000+07:00

SOMETIMES IT SNOWS IN BANGKOK

Yesterday we took the kids to Dream World, an amusement park that is probably Bangkok's closest thing to Disney World. With a fairy tale-themed entrance, the Disney influence is immediately felt right when you walk up to the place.

The rides are pretty typical of the ones you'll find at any other amusement park or carnival throughout the world, most were designed to whip people around and turn their stomachs inside out.

From the expression on Max's face here, I don't think he was enjoying this particular ride (called "The Spider.")

They even ripped off Disney by naming an attraction "Space Mountain" and calling their haunted house "The Haunted Mansion." It wasn't too scary, just a big dark place with a lot of noises and things jumping out at every turn. You can't even see what they are, unless you have a camera with a flash:

The big drawing card at Dream World is a section called "Snow World" which is a big refrigerated building complete with a hill for sledding. For a Michigan family that's been feeling a bit homesick during the holidays, it was a welcome escape. The locals seemed to enjoy it to, and I'm assuming that many of them have never seen real snow before (technically, this stuff wasn't real either, but it was close enough). One of the funnier stories I've heard here is from my wife's Thai teacher, who thinks she knows what snow is because she's seen the frost build up in her ice box.

Coats and boots were provided, although we just had shorts on underneath, so it was still pretty cold. After six months of sunny skies and stifling humidty, it felt pretty nice for about 20 minutes.

The night wound down with an electrical parade featuring a colorful cast of characters that (surprise) is pretty close to the one that marches down Main Street every evening at Disney World. The music was a techno version of "Jingle Bells" though.

All and all it was a fun time. The kids had a blast and every time we can do something to put a grin on their faces, it's all worth it.

2006-12-25T07:10:00.000+07:00

WARMEST WISHES THIS HOLIDAY SEASON

From our family to yours, Happy Holidays...

2006-12-24T08:41:00.000+07:00

WALKING IN A HUMID WONDERLAND

Ah, the Holiday Season in Bangkok. For me, there's never been anything quite like it.

Gone are the blustery days of years past and in their place are miles and miles of traffic and the heavy pollution that comes with it.

Any thoughts of a White Christmas went out the window the moment I boarded that plane back in June.

A lot of people have written and asked if they celebrate Christmas over here and from the looks of it some people do and the local businesses are doing their best to promote it (and milk some expat dollars I'm sure). There are holiday decorations everywhere, but it's all the Holly Jolly Commercial Christmas as opposed to the Silent Night version. There's not an image of Jesus in sight, but Santa Claus, reindeer, and Frosty the Snowman can be seen at various stops around town.

There are a lot of huge trees on the streets, but for some reason most seem to be sponsored by a bank. On them, ornaments and tinsel go hand and hand with credit cards.

I am of the feeling that when you celebrate Christmas, you are not just celebrating the current year, but all of the Christmases of years past. Nostalgia is a big part of it for me and while I am missing out on all of the snow and ice that I am accustomed to, I hope to create happy Christmas memories here that I can reflect on in the future

2006-12-19T10:18:00.000+07:00

IT'S BEGINNING TO LOOK A BIT LIKE CHRISTMAS...

As in the US, you know the holidays are approaching here in Bangkok when the department stores start decking their halls with boughs of commercialism.

Seen here is the kind of outfit appropriate for the go-go dancers in Na Na Plaza during this, the Most Wonderful Time of the Year.

Anyone that knows me, knows that I love Christmas. I love trimming the tree. I love sipping egg nog. I love listening to my 700+ Christmas carols on my ipod, but this year it just seems a bit different. When I walk outside, I don't get the feeling of Christmas, I still get mid-August. It's a bit disorienting for this lifelong Michigander, but I will get used to it I'm sure.

I am currently on vacation in Hua Hin, but will post more Bangkok X-Mas pics in a few days...

2006-12-01T22:37:00.000+07:00

FREE SAMPLES YOU JUST DON'T GET IN AMERICA

If you're in Bangkok, and you're looking for a place to get hammered for free on a consistent basis, then look no further than the Tops grocery store at Central Chitlom.

That's because if they're not giving away free samples of Johnnie Walker Red Label scotch one week:

Then they're pushing complimentary glasses of Smirnoff Ice the next:

Hopefully, they'll have some Kahlua spiked egg nog (mmmmmmm) soon to get me in the mood for the holidays.

Sometimes, you just gotta love this city...

2006-11-21T19:03:00.000+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: ONE MAN IN LAHORE

Today I returned from a one week stay in Lahore, Pakistan.

It was a pretty interesting experience, filled with culture and history. Anyone who is interested in what it was like can check out my new site:

www.onemaninlahore.blogspot.com

I will be updating it throughout the week, so surf over often.

2006-11-14T10:40:00.000+07:00

ONE BRAND IN BANGKOK

Check it out - I now have a logo for this site.

Let me know what you think of it by leaving me a comment in the guestbook under the links section on the right hand side of the page.

Special thanks to my friend Z in Detroit for helping me with all of the original concepts and to my friend Kate here in Bangkok for helping me refine the final version.

2006-11-12T17:53:00.000+07:00

SECRET SOCIETY

I am willing to bet that most people in Bangkok who find themselves on Asoke Road near Sukhumvit Soi 21 probably end up in the notorious Soi Cowboy district. I haven't met anyone here yet who has taken a walk across the street to visit the home of the Siam Society, an organization dedicated to preserving traditional Thai culture. And that's too bad, because it's an interesting place and doesn't really take much of a time commitment for a casual visit.

The grounds of the Siam Society are filled with wonderful lush plants which make for a relaxing atmposhpere. The main draw here is Baan Kamthieng a 160-year old traditional teakwood house that's a fine example of a Northern Thai structure built on wooden stilts.

Baan Kamthieng (baan means house by the way) also serves as an ethnological museum and contains many relics from Thailands history, including a statue of a goddess for the rice harvest (and a huge rice bowl):

And a lot of other artifacts:

There are other structures on the premises besides Baan Kamthieng and a library that houses many rare and historical documents.

The Siam Society sponsors a lot of trips in Thailand and overseas to study the arts and history. They also host lectures, concerts and exhibitions. For anyone into this kind of stuff, it seems like a great place. At the very least, it's nice to know that there's a beautiful garden oasis situated right in one of the craziest sections of town, in case a little peace and quiet is needed. It's a shame no one (or at least no one I'm aware of) knows about it.

2006-11-11T09:21:00.000+07:00

WHY I CAN'T GET AN ADVERTISING JOB IN BANGKOK: PART II

Steve Irwin (aka The Crocodile Hunter) tragically passed away on September 4 of this year. That was well over two months ago. With that in mind, the question remains: why are there over 20 plasma TV screens in the Central Chitlom department store still running his ads for Australian Made Clothing?

Maybe there's a market for deceased spokespeople here in Thailand. If so, then I am offering my services to any ad agency in town that wants to create a campaign featuring Jack Palance, Richard Pryor, Pat Morita or some other famous person who has bit the dust in the past 12 months. If a desired spokesperson has been in the great beyond for longer than that, then additonal research fees may apply.

Or perhaps the folks Australian Made Clothing either don't know that Irwin is dead or are too distraught to think about finding a suitable replacement. If that's the case, then I volunteer to travel to Sydney, Melbourne or anywhere in the Outback to track down Russell Crowe, Mel Gibson, Hugh Jackman, Paul Hogan, Elle McPherson (!) or anyone from INXS or AC/DC to start selling some shirts, pants and vests. I guarantee that a fun, creative solution can be found to this dilemma.

Whatever the case may be, the bottom line is this: there is an outdated advertising campaign running in a major Bangkok department store while at the same time a frustrated creative is waiting for his phone to ring (or an email to arrive in his inbox) with an offer to start making some ads. If anyone can help rectify this unfortunate set of circumstances, please contact me ASAP.

2006-11-10T14:46:00.000+07:00

TOKENS OF LOVE

Last Friday, I had the pleasure of doing some volunteer work for “Coins on Silom,” an annual event sponsored by the Rotary Club of Bangkok South that benefits local charaties. For the past nine years, the members of this group and their friends have been collecting money along a section of Silom road between the Dusit Thani Hotel and Soi Lailaisap to go towards projects that benefit the underprivileged in Thailand. The donations are used for things like water purification systems for schools in upcountry Thailand, homes for disabled children, schools for the deaf and the blind, self-sustaining “mini-farm” food projects for rural schools and other programs aimed at helping low income communities.

Collecting money from people at a public place is fairly easy, but at times a bit frustrating. I’m the first to admit that nine times out of ten I don’t want to be bothered by people giving away (or collecting) anything on the street – whether it be credit card applications or money for a charity. If a stranger starts talking to me, I usually avoid eye contact and keep walking, especially here in Bangkok where solicitors can be found at every Sky Train station, on every street corner, and all places in between. The fact that I don’t speak their native language and therefore am unable to fully comprehend the message is the main reason for this, but the natural tendency to not want to be bothered by a stranger also plays into it. So for these reasons, I can’t blame the people that flat out ignored me that day.

At first I tried to fit in with the crowd and get my message out in Thai by saying “kaw chuay dek pican” which roughly translates to “please help the crippled children.” Judging my the number of confused looks I got, I most likely butchered the phrase every time it left my mouth, so after awhile I just started soliciting money in English and hoping that people would understand. It should be noted that most of the (mainly male) Farangs I tried to talk to avoided me like the plague.

Every person that donated received two round stickers. One had the Rotary’s “Coins on Silom 2006” logo on it and people were supposed to wear this during the day so that others would know that they donated. The other stickers had the logos of the events two platinum sponsors (California Wow Xperience fitness centers and Chang beer) and donors were supposed to place them on a strip of 3M red cloth tape (from another major sponsor) as a symbolic coin to recognize the collective efforts of everyone making contributions. I found that most people didn’t want to be bothered with bending down and putting a sticker on a piece of cloth on the sidewalk and I ended up putting most of them on myself. I’m told that in the past people were given an actual metal coin to put down and something tells me that people would feel that this is more symbolic than a sticker with a logo, although I’m sure that the folks at California Wow, Chang, and 3M certainly donated enough for the privilege of getting a small portion of their corporate identity out there. Perhaps next year a compromise that the general public can get more enthused about can be found. In addition, there were a few activities going on during the day including a ceremony to celebrate the donations and some Chinese acrobats and dancers to liven the mood.

All in all, I felt the experience was rewarding and worthwhile. I made some new friends and any time one can help those less fortunate than themselves is a good feeling (and yes I did put some of my own money in my collection can). Getting a reaction from a stranger, whether it was from an actual donation or the smile that goes along with it is also nice and something I will remember about “Coins on Silom.” I’m told that the event went well beyond last year’s totals as well as this year’s goal, while setting an all-time record for donations in the event’s history. The knowledge that I was a part (a very small part) of that is something that I will personally value until next year when I will try again to give a little of my time to this worthy cause.

Special thanks to Jim Fowler for the photographs and for inviting me to this event.

2006-11-09T19:57:00.000+07:00

OUTSIDE BANGKOK: PHUKET FANTASEA

If you're looking for an experience in Thailand that combines a little bit of Disney World with a little bit of Las Vegas than look no further than Phuket Fantasea.

A winner of a Best Attraction Thailand Tourism Award, the main draw here is Vegas-style production that details Thailand's history and culture through dancing, magical illusions, aeiral ballet, acrobatics, pyrotechnics, special effects, stunts and over 30 elephants. Photographs were not allowed in the theater (all cameras and cell phones were confiscated before the performance), so if you want to see what all this looks like please visit www.phuket-fantasea.com. I also couldn't get a decent shot of the outside of the theater because it was so dark, so that can be seen on the website as well.

We had to go to this show a bit early, since we were traveling from the hotel through an organized tour. Most people who go also have dinner there at the Golden Kinnaree, a place that's billed as "The World's Grandest Buffet!" We were told that it was a bit expensive and the food was mediocre, so we skipped the buffet and just hung out in the park section of Phuket Fantasea for about an hour and a half.

The park has a lot of things to do, but unlike Disney World, there are no rides. Like Disney World, there are a multitude of shops that reak of commercialization. Most of the stuff contained in them were trinkets and t-shirts and one would be amazed and the variety of different stuffed elephants one company could produce.

Note: this shop had nothing to do with the Beatles.

Phuket Fantasea also shared another common thing with Disney: people running around in crazy costumes in the extreme heat. These costumes ranged from traditional Thai dress:

To offbeat characters:

And one character in particular that wouldn't go over very well at Disney in today's politically correct world (Disney won't even re-release "Song of the South" on DVD for its 60th Anniversary this year):

There are also elephant rides, an activity which is achieving "No Big Deal" status for me the more I see it.

And elephants made out of Pepsi cans:

The Buffalo Band was playing at an outdoor beer garden. This rock group's set was an eclectic mix of covers including "The Breakup Song" by the Greg Kihn Band, "I Hate Myself for Loving You" by Joan Jett and "Smoke on the Water" by Deep Purple.

All in all, Phuket Fantasea was a good time and worth a visit if you're vacationing on the island. The show was entertaing, but it was no Cirque Du Soleil. But in all fairness, those shows in Las Vegas are in a league of their own, so based on its own merit, Phuket Fantasea is a fine family attraction.